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The science behind skin care layering.

Posted by Sweetsation Therapy on 30th Jan 2021

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What is the first product do you pick up when you start your skin care routine? Cleanser? Toner? Scrub? Giving the gratitude of confusion to the 10 step Korean influence, the product line-up can be pretty extensive. But it’s very important how do you apply and use those products and in which order, and why. The end result can very much depend on it as many product can perform differently if they are applied in the wrong order. Let’s unpack this topic here starting from the beginning.

  • 1.The main goal for beautiful, glowing and well hydrated skin is to feed it with hydration infused ingredients first, and then lock the moisture in. This is where you need to pay attention to the ingredients and texture of the product. The rule of thumb is to go from the thinnest texture of the product to the thickest. Therefore, after cleansing your skin, first applied is toner. Here you will need to identify the correct formula that would respond to your skin needs. It could be hydrating toner or soothing, exfoliating and repairing… Toners are always the most liquid out of all types of skin care products. They feel so refreshing and cooling and always a pleasure to complete your cleansing routine. You can use them by saturating a cotton pad (which also helps with mild exfoliation) or just pouring some into your hands and pressing to your skin.
  • 2. It’s important to note that any moisturizer, serum or treatment would absorb and perform better on a freshly exfoliated skin, when all the dead skin cells are removed. So our 2nd product in beauty cleansing is exfoliator. It is the best to use it right after taking off your daily makeup or cleansing your skin. Before the toner. Once the skin is exfoliated, dab a splash of toner and press into your skin. Here I list an exfoliator as a 2nd step because it’s not a product that remains on the skin, but it’s rinsed off and it is an exception from thinnest to thickest rule.TIP: If you love multitasking products, give it a try to our Biomaze Balm-to-Milk perfecting cleanser. It would be a perfect step accomplishing both, cleansing and exfoliating.

Make sure to take a short breaks between each product you use. It is because some active ingredient within the product are stable and work in their own specific Ph range and have to maintain that Ph for best performance. For example. AHA based toner or moisturizer have to maintain Ph4 - 4.5 to be effective. Niacinamide containing product should be Ph5 – 7 to work as expected. Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) has Ph3.5, respectively. However that Ph would be too acidic for the skin and usually Ph of the product containing Ascorbic acid is adjusted to a more skin friendly Ph4.5. When you use products with different Ph levels it is best to not to mix them together, but wait a few minutes till one absorbs, and only then apply the next.

  • 3. Next we choose a product that will address a specific skin concern you may have, like skin unevenness, roughness, dehydration, fine lines and wrinkles. Since toners are the thinnest in texture product, a Serum or an Essence will be next in line. Usually serums or essences are water based and liquid but a little thicker in texture. They are the most concentrated types of products in terms of active ingredients and usually come in the smallest size containers. You will only need a drop or two to apply to the whole face.

If your skin is dry or not as plump as it used to be, opt for a serum with Hyaluronic Acid as a main key ingredient. For uneven skin with brown spots use a serum with Vitamin C, alpha-Arbutin, Niacinamide. If your skin has rough texture a product with AHA will help. If your main concern is fine lines and wrinkles, go for a serum with Retinol or Bakuchiol. Apply with a light pressing motions and give it a minute to absorb. TIP: There could be situations when you have more than one skin concern and would like to use 2 serums at the same time. You can do so, but ensure that one serum absorbs completely before you apply the second. Make sure that you apply a very small amount, because gel based serums have a tendency to ‘roll’ on the skin if you apply more than your skin is capable to absorb. Less is more.

  • 4. Lotion, cream or balm would be your last step in your skin care routine. These types of formulations generally contain waxes, oils and butters that create a comforting and protective seal on your skin, preventing trans epidermal water loss and lock in all the goodness you applied previously. Facial oils would fall also in this category. Please pay attention to ensure that the product you choose will respond well and be suitable for your skin type. For oily skin you may choose an oil-free moisturizer or a gel or if your skin is dry, pick a rich in texture product or an oil, or balm. For very dry skin or cold climates a water free balm would be also a great choice. Apply it gently with pressing motions or circular movements upwards.

it’s as easy as 1,2,3 and 4. From thinnest texture to thickest. Questions? We have the answers and they are only a click away